Smuggler’s Tunnel

Shaldon lies on the southern side of the Teign estuary, facing Teignmouth across the water. The village draws attention for the tunnel through the sandstone headland known as The Ness, commonly called the Smugglers Tunnel. This passage offers the only direct route to Ness Cove, a sheltered beach hidden from view.

The tunnel begins near the car park at the top of the cliff, marked by a low doorway. Inside, solid brick walls and electric lighting guide the way. The path slopes gently at first, wide enough for two to pass, then bends sharply before a short flight of steps leads down to the beach.

The entire walk takes just a few minutes, yet the change in surroundings feels immediate. One moment the estuary lies behind; the next, the open cove spreads out ahead, framed by towering red cliffs.

Local lore links the tunnel to 18th- and 19th-century smugglers moving contraband from boats to inland hiding places. The name has stuck, adding romance to the spot.

Historical accounts point instead to a more practical origin. The Clifford family, owners of Ness House in the early 1800s, likely commissioned the cutting to reach their private beach. A ruined lime kiln near the entrance suggests another early use: transporting limestone landed below to be processed above. Modifications during the Second World War altered parts of the route, blocking an older section and creating the current public exit.

Ness Cove itself remains quiet and unspoilt. The beach combines shingle with patches of sand at low tide, and rock pools appear along the edges. The cliffs provide natural shelter, keeping wind at bay and holding the sun late into the afternoon. Yellow buoys mark a safe swimming zone clear of boats. The cove rates highly with many reviews, praised for its seclusion and clean water.

The surrounding area adds to the appeal. Shaldon village offers narrow streets lined with cottages, pubs, and cafes. A passenger ferry crosses regularly to Teignmouth, while the South West Coast Path runs above the headland for wider views.